Since the 1960s, Don Cuco has become synonymous with delicious old-school Mexican food. The original Riverside Drive location, reminiscent of a Spanish villa, has been a prominent part of Toluca Lake’s dining scene for decades, becoming a local favorite for traditional, comforting meals served in a warm, inviting atmosphere that fits right in with the neighborhood’s cozy small-town feel. Just as famous as its food is the story behind its creation and the humble beginnings of its founder, Augusto “Cuco” Salazar Sr.
In 1957, Salazar Sr. arrived in Los Angeles from Merida, Mexico, with nothing more than a suitcase, a passport and $100. He worked at several fine-dining establishments in Toluca Lake, including Sorrentino’s Seafood House and the Kings Arms, taking on jobs ranging from washing dishes and bartending to serving tables. In 1966, he had saved enough to purchase the adjacent Buccaneer beer bar. After several years of working long nights as its sole bartender, an opportunity arose in 1969 to purchase the neighboring restaurant at 3911 Riverside Drive. Salazar Sr. sold the bar, and Don Cuco was born.
While Salazar Sr. admits he never intended to own a Mexican restaurant, Don Cuco aligned with his vision of building a better life and providing for his family in a safer setting than operating a bar alone. “He felt he could do something different by incorporating more traditional dishes that other Mexican restaurants in the area weren’t doing,” his son, Augusto Salazar Jr., shares. Salazar Sr. drew on recipes he had gleaned throughout his travels around Mexico, replicating marinades and preparations based on some of the best dishes from the country’s various regions. This led him to create standout staples such as grilled fajitas, chile colorado, cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork), tortilla soup, crunchy tacos and salsas — all of which have been menu favorites for years.
Salazar Jr. notes that Don Cuco, which has expanded to locations in Downtown Burbank and Simi Valley, has been very much a family affair. He serves as vice president alongside his younger sister, Pilar, while their four older siblings, who also worked at Don Cuco, have since branched out to open seven restaurants of their own under different names. “I have worked in the restaurants since I was 13. I started as a dishwasher during summer break from school,” he shares. “I was born after [my father] had opened multiple locations … I always knew the restaurant business would be a part of my life in one way or another.”
Don Cuco’s storied history reflects the character of Toluca Lake, a neighborhood that, Salazar Jr. observes, is proud of its past. “We have served generations of people in Toluca Lake, and we want everyone to feel like they are somewhere that feels like home when they walk in,” he says. “It has been an honor to serve our community for so many years, and it still brings us great joy every day. We look forward to creating more memories for years to come.”